A
Journey to Heaven : Ladakh Motorcycle Diaries
“We travel, some of us forever,
to seek other states, other lives, other souls.” ― Anaïs Nin
Spending few evenings for
rotten discussions , we 4 guys finally planned a trip to Leh-Ladakh for 11 days
on our Bikes. Of-course,
by then we didn’t know much about Ladakh. But with the help of other
travelers/riders blogs/suggestions , we finalized our itinerary.
All set, but 2 guys back out at the last moments . And finally we were only two guys remained for the journey.
Day 1: Tour starts from Delhi to Udhampur (J&K)
by Train:-
In the span of 2 weeks
before the journey, we managed/collected the things which we had to take with
us ( eg clothing, medicines, eateries, servicing of bikes, spares and riding
gears)
On the night of 24th
July’13, we catch the train to Udhampur (J&K). the
tour officially started at 22:00 hrs. But We reached the station 3 hours before
the departure time, for bike paper verification, bike Packing, and loading in
train. All done in time. After 650 Kms journey, morning at 10:30 am we reached Udhampur.
Day 2: 25th July:-Udhampur (J&K) to
Srinagar:-
We unloaded and unpacked our empty-tank bikes and
pushed these 200 kg bulls to the exit of the station. uffff…very
tuff job (while loading the bikes railway officials make sure that the fuel tank is empty). Outside the station, we fueled the tanks and tied our
luggage in the backseat with bungee ropes. From here onwards, we started journey.
For those who have extra gastric desires can have famous Patisa at Kud and Rajma
Chawal at Peera Dhaba in Ramban distt. We board
our guest house in Srinagar at 21:00 hrs , had our dinner at Mughal
Darbar famous for dishes like Goshtaba, wazwaan and then we headed to Dal lake.
Day 3: 26th july:- Sightseeing at
Srinagar (Dal lake, gulmarg, local market):-
Gandola Ride DAL lake
We didn’t ride much this day and decided to go for local sightseeing in Srinagar. We visited Shalimar
garden , Gulmarg (60 Km from Srinagar)and enjoyed the photography, Gandola
riding and horse riding.
Day 4: 27th july:- Srinagar – Sonmarg –
Zozi La – Drass – Kargil-Overnight in Hotel at Kargil:-
D-Day for long riding hours have been started as we
entered the Srinagar –Leh highway. This road remains open for traffic
from June to October. We started from Srinagar around 9
AM in the morning and we went past the green meadows of Sonmarg, before making
our way to the Zoji La(Pass) at 11,500 feet. Officially this was the first pass
we were scaling up on our trip. The road was muddy, gravely and non-existent at
best.
Pic - Zoji la Pic- Sonmarg Entry
The
scenery got better and better as we crossed Gumri (the army check post) heading
towards Drass – the second coldest inhabited place only after Siberia. As we
were nearing Drass, we could see the Tiger hill over the distant peaks.
Pic- Distant view of Tiger hill
We
reached Dras at 3:30 PM and it was 5:45 PM by the time we finished our tea and
noodles with the great dose of stories of Kargil war by the Commanding Officer posted there. After that great session, we
headed towards Kargil.
We
reached Kargil by 8:00 PM and with a small affords , we managed to find a room (hotel
Siachen). This day, we covered a stretch of 205 Kms.
KARGIL WAR MEMORIAL PAK SENTRY POST now a GLORY SIGN
OF INDIAN ARMY
Day 5: 28th july:- Kargil – Lamayuru –
Magnetic Hills-Leh:-
We
started off to Leh by 9 AM. Fueled our bikes, and left the greenery behind.
Today was the foray into the deserts of Leh-Ladakh. The scenery changed to
brown mountains dotted with snow capped peaks. Crossed Namik La(12,200ft) and
Fotu La(13,432 ft) and reached
Lamayuru around 3:00 PM where the beautiful monastery welcomed us. After having
our lunch there, we again started towards Leh, we witnessed the brown coloured
rocks descending almost 4000ft in a long stretch.
A SCENIC VIEW OF BROWN MOUNTAINS AT NAMIK LA
Finally
after 10-11 hrs and 220 Kms, we were in Leh!. Today we realized, Himalayas were
not all neat and snowy but instead it was muddy and rocky as well.
Day 6: 29th July:- Leh Local Sighseeing
+ Inner Line Permits:-
A TOP VIEW OF LEH CITY
This morning wasn’t good
enough for both of us. We got stuck with Acute Mountain Sickness and the severe headache was killing us. After our breakfast in hotel we
took the medicine and decided to go to bed again. This day was for our acclimatization
and for inner line permit ( for visiting Nubra valley, Panamik, Pangong lake,
written permission from DC office is necessary).
Day 7: 30th july:- Leh –Nubra Valley –
Getting high at Khardung-La pass- Overnight at Hunder:-
Nubra means
garden in Ladakhi. This valley is home to all of the following: a high-altitude
desert, complete with camels and wind-carved dunes; vast fertile
tree-lined grassy expanses; and sky-reflecting blue lakes;.
To get to the Nubra valley, we head out from Leh on
a picturesque 6-hour journey over Khardung-La pass (18380 Ft), which is the
highest motorable road in the world. There we had our surprisingly tempting,
victorious: a bowlful of humble Maggie noodles —at “Highest Cafeteria in The
World” Which I’ll affectionately remember all over the years.
KHARDUNG LA PASS (HIGHEST
MOTORABLE ROAD IN THE WORLD) WORLD’S HIGHEST CAFETERIA
This high point behind us, we descend to Diskit/Hunder
in the Nubra valley. And in few hours we
were in desert: specifically the grey-white dunes at Hundar. It's a great place
to explore. In fact this was the place I liked most in my whole journey. The
Hundar dunes are fascinating. We spent some time in the desert, relaxed, played and then went back to
our camps at night. There are a few camp agencies in the area and we hired one cheap nearby camp.
SAND DUNES OF HUNDER SOME GOOD MOMENTS AT HUNDER
Another fascinating, adventurous 130 Km exciting
day ended after a nice meal in our camps.
WAY BACK TO LEH
The famous Ladakh Scouts-snow leopards reunion at some en-route cafe
Panamik has hot water springs. After a 210 Km
journey we reached back to Leh. After checking back in to our hotel, we spent
the evening exploring Leh and its market. At night we headed to Leh’s other
great panorama point, the Shanti Stupa. Whole Leh
city looks beautiful at night from this point.
Day 9: 1st August:- Leh – Over Chang-La
pass -Pangong Tso Lake- overnight at Leh:-
CHANG-LA-PASS (THIRD HIGHEST PASS OF WORLD) PANGONG-TSO LAKE
This was another exciting
day. While preparing our tour itinerary we came to know about Pangong- Tso lake
( 3-idiot lake).So today was blocked for visiting this
beautiful mountain lake. The Pangong lake — a long, shallow sliver of
water 130km long and barely 7km wide at most — lies partly
under Chinese control. No water traffic is permitted here. Before reaching to
the Lake we encountered another (Third highest pass in the world): Chang-La
pass ( 17586 ft). We enjoyed the complementary tea in army sentry in Chang La
pass. Yaks and wild horses were another attractive scenes on the way to the lake.
INDIAN
ARMY”S PATROLING BOATS AT LAKE AREA IS SURROUNDED WITH
MINEFIELDS
We spent few hours of noon in lake and then we
headed back to Leh. We travelled 370 Kms that day. By the time we reached our
hotel, we were completely exhausted. After a shower of warm water followed with delicious dinner, we went to our beds.
Day 10: 2st August:- Leh – Moore Plains
– Pang – Over night at Sarchu:-
From here onwards our
Journey back to Delhi has been started. Before starting this second phase we
went to bike mechanic in Leh and fixed some minor problems of bike. Around 11:00 AM we headed off to Sarchu through Leh -
Manali highway. We had our breakfast in Karu (40 Kms from Leh). There was an army
canteen which served the delicious Dosa just at 25 Rs. It was really surprising
to have that cheap price for Dosa at 13000 ft.
We fueled our bike tanks in karu and now, only 600 Rs were left in our
pocket with no ATM around. It was informed by locals that next ATM we will find
will be in Manali which is 400 Kms ahead from Karu or 40 Kms back (at Leh). We
decided not to go back. Before reaching to Sarchu, we met with our third
Glory: Second highest pass in the world: Tanglang-La pass ( 17582 ft).
TANGLANG-LA-PASS
(SECOND HIGHEST PASS OF WORLD) CUTE PEMA
On the way we encountered
the first rain of our tour and after this shower, it was blizzard cold out
there. After a big glass of tea, we continued ahead and reached Sarchu around
09:00 PM. We got a good and cheap accommodation (100 Rs for a bed in a small roadside
hotel).
Day 11: 3rd August:- Sarchu- Rohtang
Pass-Manali:-
Other riders whom we met back in Leh, told us that due to bad
weather it is very dangerous riding out there in Rohtang Pass which is en-route to Manali. Also great amount
of dirt and slush will worsen the problem especially after noon time, when
glaciers starts to melt.
Hence we started early in
the morning ( 6:30 AM) so that before noon we can cross the pass. After paying
the food bill and accommodation charges to the Nepali couple, we had only 40 rs
remained in our pocket. Manali was still 225 kms away from where we can get an
ATM. We were not in a position to afford our breakfast and lunch. So we managed
the day with dry fruits only(which we brought with us). And here comes Rohtang
pass ( 13051 ft): 'Roh' (crying) 'Thang'
(sorrow) pass: The cool winds, all covering mist, slushy road:. But
finally we crossed it unhurt and had the
amazing feeling of victory. This was the last pass we were crossing.
WAY
TO MANALI WAY TO
MISTY AND COLD ROHTANG-PASS
Around 4:00 PM we reached
Manali. Had our meal here. At 5:00 PM we were done with the food and rest, so
decided to move ahead towards Chandigarh. At 3:00 AM we were at our destination
in Chandigarh .This was the longest distance we covered ( 500 Kms) and we were
really tired.
Day 12: 4rd August:- Chandigarh- Delhi:-
Whole day we slept only
and did nothing. Evening at 5:00 PM we headed off to Delhi and at 10:00 PM we
were in our places.
I witnessed the Himalaya mountains like never before and always remember this adventurous bike
journey. We have left behind those
green, brown, ice covered, muddy and rocky mountains but have taken some special
moments back home on our camera cards.
It was an great experience and has encouraged me to do the adventures like
this time and again. This was my first long bike trip which opened the channels for next many adventures. Julley! (greetings in ladakhi).
Year 2013
“It is good to have an end to
journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.
