A Journey to Heaven : Ladakh

A Journey to Heaven : Ladakh Motorcycle Diaries

“We travel, some of us forever, to seek other states, other lives, other souls.” ― Anaïs Nin

Spending few evenings for rotten discussions , we 4 guys finally planned a trip to Leh-Ladakh for 11 days on our Bikes.  Of-course, by then we didn’t know much about Ladakh. But with the help of other travelers/riders blogs/suggestions , we finalized our itinerary.

All set, but 2 guys back out at the last moments  . And finally we were only two guys remained for the journey.

Day 1: Tour starts from Delhi to Udhampur (J&K) by Train:-

In the span of 2 weeks before the journey, we managed/collected the things which we had to take with us ( eg clothing, medicines, eateries, servicing of bikes, spares and riding gears)

On the night of 24^th July’13, we catch the train to Udhampur (J&K). the tour officially started at 22:00 hrs. But We reached the station 3 hours before the departure time, for bike paper verification, bike Packing, and loading in train. All done in time. After 650 Kms journey, morning at 10:30 am we reached Udhampur.

Day 2: 25^th July:-Udhampur (J&K) to Srinagar:-

We unloaded and unpacked our empty-tank bikes and pushed these 200 kg bulls to the exit of the station. uffff…very tuff job (while loading the bikes railway officials make sure that the fuel tank is empty). Outside the station, we fueled the tanks and tied our luggage in the backseat with bungee ropes. From here onwards, we started journey. For those who have extra gastric desires can have famous Patisa at Kud and Rajma Chawal at Peera Dhaba in Ramban distt. We board  our guest house in Srinagar at 21:00 hrs , had our dinner at Mughal Darbar famous for dishes like Goshtaba, wazwaan and then we headed to Dal lake.

Day 3: 26^th july:- Sightseeing at Srinagar (Dal lake, gulmarg, local market):-

      Gandola Ride                                                                                 DAL lake

We didn’t ride much this day and decided to go for local sightseeing in Srinagar. We visited Shalimar garden , Gulmarg (60 Km from Srinagar)and enjoyed the photography, Gandola riding and horse riding.

Day 4: 27^th july:- Srinagar – Sonmarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil-Overnight in Hotel at Kargil:-

D-Day for long riding hours have been started as we entered the Srinagar –Leh highway. This road remains open for traffic from June to October. We started from Srinagar around 9 AM in the morning and we went past the green meadows of Sonmarg, before making our way to the Zoji La(Pass) at 11,500 feet. Officially this was the first pass we were scaling up on our trip. The road was muddy, gravely and non-existent at best.

Pic - Zoji la                                                                   Pic- Sonmarg Entry

The scenery got better and better as we crossed Gumri (the army check post) heading towards Drass – the second coldest inhabited place only after Siberia. As we were nearing Drass, we could see the Tiger hill over the distant peaks. 

                                                                                       Pic- Distant view of Tiger hill

We reached Dras at 3:30 PM and it was 5:45 PM by the time we finished our tea and noodles with the great dose of stories of Kargil war by the Commanding Officer  posted there. After that great session, we headed towards Kargil.

We reached Kargil by 8:00 PM and with a small affords , we managed to find a room (hotel Siachen). This day, we covered a stretch of 205 Kms.

KARGIL WAR MEMORIAL                                       PAK SENTRY POST now a GLORY SIGN OF                                                                                                                 INDIAN ARMY

Day 5: 28^th july:- Kargil – Lamayuru – Magnetic Hills-Leh:-

We started off to Leh by 9 AM. Fueled our bikes, and left the greenery behind. Today was the foray into the deserts of Leh-Ladakh. The scenery changed to brown mountains dotted with snow capped peaks. Crossed Namik La(12,200ft) and Fotu La(13,432 ft) and reached Lamayuru around 3:00 PM where the beautiful monastery welcomed us. After having our lunch there, we again started towards Leh, we witnessed the brown coloured rocks descending almost 4000ft in a long stretch.

A SCENIC VIEW OF BROWN MOUNTAINS                                   AT NAMIK LA

Finally after 10-11 hrs and 220 Kms, we were in Leh!. Today we realized, Himalayas were not all neat and snowy but instead it was muddy and rocky as well. 

Day 6: 29^th July:- Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits:-

A TOP VIEW OF LEH CITY

This morning wasn’t good enough for both of us. We got stuck with Acute Mountain Sickness and the severe headache was killing us. After our breakfast in hotel we took the medicine and decided to go to bed again. This day was for our acclimatization and for inner line permit ( for visiting Nubra valley, Panamik, Pangong lake, written permission from DC office is necessary).

Day 7: 30^th july:- Leh –Nubra Valley – Getting high at Khardung-La pass- Overnight at Hunder:-

Nubra means garden in Ladakhi. This valley is home to all of the following: a high-altitude desert, complete with camels and wind-carved dunes; vast fertile tree-lined grassy expanses; and sky-reflecting blue lakes;.

To get to the Nubra valley, we head out from Leh on a picturesque 6-hour journey over Khardung-La pass (18380 Ft), which is the highest motorable road in the world. There we had our surprisingly tempting, victorious: a bowlful of humble Maggie noodles —at “Highest Cafeteria in The World” Which I’ll  affectionately remember all over the years.

KHARDUNG LA PASS (HIGHEST MOTORABLE ROAD IN THE WORLD)  WORLD’S HIGHEST CAFETERIA

This high point behind us, we descend to Diskit/Hunder  in the Nubra valley. And in few hours we were in desert: specifically the grey-white dunes at Hundar. It's a great place to explore. In fact this was the place I liked most in my whole journey. The Hundar dunes are fascinating. We spent some time in the desert, relaxed, played and then went back to our camps at night. There are a few camp agencies in the area and we hired one cheap nearby camp.

SAND DUNES OF HUNDER                                   SOME GOOD  MOMENTS AT HUNDER

Another fascinating, adventurous 130 Km exciting day ended after a nice meal in our camps.

Day 8: 31^st july:- Hunder –Panamik –Khardung-La pass- Overnight at Leh:-


                                                                                WAY BACK TO LEH

The famous Ladakh Scouts-snow leopards  reunion at some en-route cafe

Panamik has hot water springs. After a 210 Km journey we reached back to Leh. After checking back in to our hotel, we spent the evening exploring Leh and its market. At night we headed to Leh’s other great panorama point, the Shanti Stupa.  Whole Leh city looks beautiful at night from this point.

Day 9: 1^st August:- Leh – Over Chang-La pass -Pangong Tso Lake- overnight at Leh:-

CHANG-LA-PASS (THIRD HIGHEST PASS OF WORLD)                            PANGONG-TSO LAKE

This was another exciting day. While preparing our tour itinerary we came to know about Pangong- Tso lake ( 3-idiot lake).So today was blocked for visiting this beautiful mountain lake. The Pangong lake — a long, shallow sliver of water 130km long and barely 7km wide at most — lies partly under Chinese control. No water traffic is permitted here. Before reaching to the Lake we encountered another (Third highest pass in the world): Chang-La pass ( 17586 ft). We enjoyed the complementary tea in army sentry in Chang La pass. Yaks and wild horses were another attractive scenes on the way to the lake.

INDIAN ARMY”S PATROLING BOATS AT LAKE      AREA IS SURROUNDED WITH MINEFIELDS

We spent few hours of noon in lake and then we headed back to Leh. We travelled 370 Kms that day. By the time we reached our hotel, we were completely exhausted. After a shower of warm water followed with delicious dinner, we went to our beds.

Day 10: 2^st August:- Leh – Moore Plains – Pang – Over night at Sarchu:-

From here onwards our Journey back to Delhi has been started. Before starting this second phase we went to bike mechanic in Leh and fixed some minor problems of bike. Around 11:00  AM we headed off to Sarchu through Leh - Manali highway. We had our breakfast in Karu (40 Kms from Leh). There was an army canteen which served the delicious Dosa just at 25 Rs. It was really surprising to have that cheap price for Dosa at 13000 ft.  We fueled our bike tanks in karu and now, only 600 Rs were left in our pocket with no ATM around. It was informed by locals that next ATM we will find will be in Manali which is 400 Kms ahead from Karu or 40 Kms back (at Leh). We decided not to go back. Before reaching to Sarchu, we met with our third Glory: Second highest pass in the world: Tanglang-La pass ( 17582 ft).

TANGLANG-LA-PASS (SECOND HIGHEST PASS OF WORLD)                          CUTE PEMA

On the way we encountered the first rain of our tour and after this shower, it was blizzard cold out there. After a big glass of tea, we continued ahead and reached Sarchu around 09:00 PM. We got a good and cheap accommodation (100 Rs for a bed in a small roadside hotel).

Day 11: 3^rd August:- Sarchu- Rohtang Pass-Manali:-

Other riders  whom we met back in Leh, told us that due to bad weather it is very dangerous riding out there in Rohtang Pass  which is en-route to Manali. Also great amount of dirt and slush will worsen the problem especially after noon time, when glaciers starts to melt.  

Hence we started early in the morning ( 6:30 AM) so that before noon we can cross the pass. After paying the food bill and accommodation charges to the Nepali couple, we had only 40 rs remained in our pocket. Manali was still 225 kms away from where we can get an ATM. We were not in a position to afford our breakfast and lunch. So we managed the day with dry fruits only(which we brought with us). And here comes Rohtang pass ( 13051 ft): 'Roh' (crying) 'Thang' (sorrow) pass: The cool winds, all covering mist, slushy road:. But finally we crossed it unhurt  and had the amazing feeling of victory. This was the last pass we were crossing.

WAY TO MANALI                                                         WAY TO MISTY AND COLD ROHTANG-PASS

Around 4:00 PM we reached Manali. Had our meal here. At 5:00 PM we were done with the food and rest, so decided to move ahead towards Chandigarh. At 3:00 AM we were at our destination in Chandigarh .This was the longest distance we covered ( 500 Kms) and we were really tired.

Day 12: 4^rd August:- Chandigarh- Delhi:-

Whole day we slept only and did nothing. Evening at 5:00 PM we headed off to Delhi and at 10:00 PM we were in our places.

I witnessed the Himalaya mountains like never before  and always remember this adventurous bike journey. We have left behind those green, brown, ice covered, muddy and rocky mountains but have taken some special moments back home on our camera cards.

It was an great experience and  has encouraged me to do the adventures like this time and again. This was my first long bike trip which opened the channels for next many adventures. Julley! (greetings in ladakhi).

Year 2013

“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.